As the birthplace of fish and chips, it’s no surprise that Oldham has an abundance of quality chippies.
When it comes to the town centre, though, there is one in particular that stands out – Levers Fish and Chips at Tommyfield Market.
It’s here that you’ll find the blue plaque that commemorates Oldham’s claim to fish and chip fame, although Levers was only opened at Tommyfield just over 30 years ago.
We visited the legendary chippy – regrettably only for the first time – on a Friday afternoon and were just lucky enough to find a seat in front of the window.
Within minutes, we were welcomed by our waitress and handed menus and it was only a few more minutes until we had a steaming pot of tea for two in front of us – the kind of efficiency you’d expect from a well-oiled and long-standing business like Levers.
The options included both haddock and cod, as well as scampi. There was also a selection of pies and puddings, which will have to wait until our next visit to sample.
While it's difficult to understand why anyone wouldn’t want fish and chips, especially from here, the menu also had halloumi fries, sausages and chicken. And of course they serve mushy peas.
In my experience, stand-out fish and chip shops are few and far between in Greater Manchester. I’ve been disappointed one too many times by soft batter and limp, lukewarm chips, therefore my expectations were modest at best.
I was wrong. Very wrong. You can tell a good plate of fish and chips just by looking at it – golden brown batter, thick-cut chips still glistening from the oil, mostly fluffy with the occasional crispy one, and a generous helping of mushy peas.
As it arrived at our table the winter sun was streaming through the window and made the food look almost cinematic. I’m not exaggerating when I say this was a very good looking plate of food – that had the flavour to match.
I added salt and vinegar and tucked in. Everything was well balanced, most importantly when it came to the fish to batter ratio, and not too greasy either. The batter had a satisfying crunch, the fish was light in both texture and flavour and the chips were piping hot.
My plate was spotless after I’d finished, and if I hadn’t had to continue with the rest of my working day, I would have considered seconds.
The portion size was just right for lunch, and at £8.70 per portion, it’s also reasonably priced if you’re looking for the occasional treat. With a tea and portion of mushy peas, my bill came to £13.
Levers Fish and Chips has become a local legend since opening its doors in 1991 and has been enjoyed by generations of Oldhamers.
The restaurant and takeaway sections of the shop were both full when we visited, with a constant flow of customers, young and old, from both the street and Tommyfield Market where it is located.
In the summer, the market is facing demolition to make way for Oldham’s ambitious regeneration plans. Most traders will be moving into a new building near the Spindles shopping centre, however Levers Fish and Chips are looking for other options.
So if you want to visit this local institution in the spot that has made it famous, now is your time to go. You will not be disappointed.
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